Sunday, December 13, 2020

Valisvarar Temple - Thiruvaleesvaram, Thirunelveli வாலீஸ்வரர் கோயில் - திருவாலீஸ்வரம், திருநெல்வேலி

Some temples have been built at sites that have been sacred for centuries before the current structures were built. Most of the temples we have seen so far belong to that category. The origins of these temples are obscured in the mists of history. Generation after generation of people have come to these temples out of piety and devotion. Every minor king and emperor who ruled this land has contributed to these temples. So much so that it is very difficult for ordinary folk to make out which structure was built in which era. The current forms are a fusion of many different eras and styles.

On the other hand there are temples that were completely built in a certain single era. Usually there was nothing special about the site. These could be sepulchral temples (பள்ளிப்படை கோயில்) or temples that commemorate a certain battle victory etc. These temples were often ignored by succeeding dynasties. The good thing for the historian and especially the art historian is that these temples remain frozen in time and true to the era in which they were originally built. Better known examples are - the Kailasanathar at Kanchipuram, the Shore Temple at Mahabalipuram, Darasuram, Periya Koil at Thanjavur, Gangaikondacholapuram etc. Less well known are countless others such as the ones at Narthamalai, Panamalai, Kodumbalur etc. to name a few. 

One such hidden gem exists, tucked away from the general public view, in rural Thirunelveli district, in the little village of Thiruvaleeswaram near Ambasamudram on the Thamirabarani river. It is strictly guarded, as a monument of national significance by the Archeological Survey of India (the ASI). It is well maintained. There are many inscriptions from Raja Rajan's time. Built by the invading Cholas in the Pandian heartland in the mid 10th century, it is believed to be one of the best examples of early Cholan architecture in existence. A famed strike corps of the Imperial Chola army called the Moondru Kai Mahasenai (மூன்று கை மகாசேனை) was headquartered here. 

The ASI guard here, a young village lad, would not let me take any pictures inside of this small but stunningly beautiful temple. He wanted me to get permission from the ASI which was not possible in the short time we had. I have included a link to a blog which has some decent pictures.

https://tamilnadu-favtourism.blogspot.com/…/valisvara-templ…

We also visited the beautiful Sivan temple at Thirupudaimaruthur, the Narumbunathar, home to some of the best mural paintings of the Nayakkan era. It was too dark to take any pictures.(Not to be confused with the Mahalingeswarar at Thiruvidaimaruthur in the Kaveri delta)






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