Chitharal - The Jain Legacy - சிதறால்

Jainism (சமணம் /அமணம்) in the Tamil country has a long and illustrious history beginning in the 3rd century BCE and lasting till about the 10th century when it eventually more or less disappeared. Today Tamil Jains are a minuscule minority. As you well know, during the first few centuries of the first millennium Jainism and Buddhism were the predominant religions in the Tamil country. Buddhism had an urban presence and there is very little evidence of its legacy to be seen today. The Jains on the other hand had a presence in remote areas too. They have left a rich legacy in our language, customs, beliefs etc. Some of the richest literary works like the Silapathikaram are Jain works. Kovalan and Kannagi were Jains. Manimekalai was Buddhist. Many Pandian kings of the early part of the first millennium were Jains. The Jains brought literacy to the masses through their schools. To this day, in the Tamil language, we call schools Pallikkoodam (பள்ளிக்கூடம்) after the Jain Pallis or monasteries.

There is plenty of physical evidence that the Jain monks have left behind in the hills, rocks and woods in the Tamil countryside. Many have been heavily vandalized over the centuries. Some are relatively inaccessible. Some have been lost to greedy granite quarries. Some others have survived and some of the most famous ones are in places like Sittannavasal. But here in the deep south, there is a place called Chitharal, about an hour northwest of Nagercoil (about 33 km), in the Thircharanattu Malai Hills (Charanathar means celestial beings in the Jain tradition), where you will be able to appreciate the ruins of a Jain monastery in a peaceful, tranquil and sylvan atmosphere. It was occupied by Jain monks from the 1st century BCE until the 9th century. It is beautiful. Go in the early morning or late afternoon. It gets very hot on the rocks by midday. It is a climb and you have to be fit. It is remote. Be safe. Sometimes hard to find. Be sure your driver knows where he is going. It is sometimes called the Bhagavathy Amman temple because it served as such briefly in the 13th century. The locals call it the Malaikovil.

Visited August 2019

Nanjil Nadu - Kanyakumari and Nagercoil

Nanjil Nadu or Nanji Nadu (Nanjil means plough in Tamil) is an ancient land sandwiched between the lands of the Cherans (present day Kerala) and the Pandians. It was under the influence of one of these great powers at various times. The area was ruled by a dynasty called the Ay (ஆய்) from Sangam times till the 10th century. They were one of the original Velir kings of the Sangam era. They were originally herders (ஆயர் means herdsmen in Tamil). Their symbol was the elephant and their capital was at Vizhinjam near present day Trivandrum. Although they seem to have disappeared after the Chola conquest of this region in the 10th century, later rulers of this area like the Cheraman Perumals and the Travancore kings also claimed descent from them. 

The area is lush and green. Even in the heat of summer when we visited, it was beautifully verdant with lots of water and greenery. It is a veritable birder's paradise. Rubber plantations abound and many exotic spices grow here. To the north lie the tail-end of the Western Ghats with the ocean to the south. The Pothigai Hills where legend says that the first grammar of the Tamil language was written by the sage Agastya are among the hills that you see to the north.

The people looked prosperous and happy. 70% of the population speaks Tamil while the other 30% speak Malayalam. Three great religions, Hinduism, Christianity and Islam that have been here for centuries co-exist very amicably and peacefully. It was refreshing to see that. Temples, Churches and Mosques dot the landscape. In the next post we will see evidence of another great religion that disappeared.

You see the Kurinchi and the Marutham here.

Suchindram - Thanumalayan Temple சுசீந்திரம் தாணுமாலயன் கோயில்

The Thanumalayan or Sthanumalayan temple is one of the most popular temples in this area. It is unique as it is one of very few temples where the the triumvirate of the Hindu gods, Brahma (Ayan) the creator of the universe, Vishnu (Mal) the preserver and Siva (Thanu or Sthanu) the destroyer are venerated as principal deities in the same temple enshrining the concept of the eternal cosmic cycle. The lingam in the sanctum sanctorum represents all three gods. There is a separate shrine for Lord Vishnu and a tall 22 feet statue of Hanuman carved out of a single rock, which is one the best examples of its kind anywhere. 

It is a large temple with an outer wall enclosing multiple shrines and halls. The layout suggests that it is quite an ancient temple. It is first mentioned in the 8th century and there is inscriptional evidence that it was here in the 9th. The Pandian, Chola and Chera kings have contributed to it. The Nayakkan and later Travancore kings were very fond of this temple and made many contributions. Most of the architecture as it stands today is from the 17th century. 

The tall and majestic rajagopuram at 134 feet is visible for miles around the countryside. It is white in colour and adorned with a myriad of sculptures. But the most well known sculptural works here are the musical columns in the Alankara Mandapam. There are 4 main ones, carved out of a single granite block. There are a number of columns that make a distinct musical note when pounded upon. The technique they used to create these remains a mystery. Impressive. 

Situated midway between Kanyakumari and Nagercoil, this is a must visit temple for many reasons. Photography was tough as the temple was busy.

Nagaraja Temple - Nagercoil - A Temple for the Serpent - நாகர்கோயில்

The snake, especially the cobra, has a special place in the cultures of South Asia. The cobra is venerated as a sacred animal in many traditions including the Hindu, Jain and Buddhist. It is a mythical being in many beliefs.

Cultures that worship the snake have been around this region for centuries preceding the advent of more structured religions. With its deadly bite and appearance, the cobra was feared and respected. People never harmed these animals and it is a cardinal sin to harm a cobra in many cultures. 

Many ancient tribes have been named after the cobra. Along the coast of the Tamil country, Kerala and in Northern Sri Lanka, one or more tribes have been named as such. A people called the Nagar (நாகர்) appear in many legends, myths and historical texts in India and Sri Lanka. From the Mahavamsa and the Manimekalai to the Periplus of the Erythraean sea, snake worshipping Nagar tribes are everywhere. They seem to be one of the earliest Tamil or Tamilized tribes. In Kerala a community called the Nair derives their name from the snake. Many place names seem to remind us of the Naga tradition.

Here, in the very south of India, in the heart of the city of Nagercoil, is a temple dedicated to the snake giving the city its name. Nagaraja, the king of snakes and the cobra around Siva's neck is the main deity here. So in a way it is a temple of Siva. But there is an idol of Vishnu here making it special for Vaishnavites too. In ancient times, it appears to have been a Jain temple also. Plenty of Jain sculptures and inscriptions here. 

The architecture is not very impressive but unique. The current structure was built in the Keralan style by the Travancore kings. Snakes are encouraged to visit the temple and they say that there are two resident cobras here. They are fed with milk on a regular basis. Hundreds of idols of snakes are found everywhere. They say nobody has died of a snake bite in this area as far as anybody can remember.

The Essential Guide to Visiting the Lesser Known Temples of Tamil Nadu

The Temples of Tamil Nadu are important in many ways. For people who believe in the religion these are spiritual sanctuaries. For art lovers they are the repositories of great cultural wealth. For those with an interest in history they are invaluable sources of knowledge. For the curious and otherwise interested they are fascinating sites to explore. There are many reasons to visit these wonderful placers.

Visiting these temples are sometimes challenging and a knowledge of their peculiarities are essential to make your visit convenient, hassle-free and meaningful. This post is meant to familiarize the uninitiated to certain customs and cultural aspects related to these temples to make your visit pleasant. We think this will be of special use for foreigners and visitors who are unfamiliar wth the country. For locals it is part of their culture and they will know more than what is written here.

1. Timing: 

When planning a trip to a temple or group of temples, it is very important to find out when the temple is open. Most temples open quite early in the morning. 6 am opening is common. Most temples will close their doors by noon. They will open again in the late afternoon between 4 pm and 6 pm and remain open till late at night. Most temples close around 9 pm. These are very general times and the exact opening and closing times for individual temples will vary and should be verified beforehand. Temples that are not active and are under the direct management of the archeological or heritage departments of the government might have more regular opening and closing times.

2. Special Days:

Prior knowledge of the astrologically important days will be useful in planning a visit. Most temples will be closed during an eclipse while others will be open. Special days for the temple or the deity will sometimes draw large crowds. For those who like to experience the special poojas, festivals and rituals, these days might be attractive. For others who are interested in experiencing these temples in peace and quiet and admire the art and architecture unhindered, a quiet day might be more attractive.

3. Attire:

Modest attire is recommended for active temples. For men long pants are fine. A Veshti or the traditional South Indian male lower garment may be appreciated but certainly not essential.  Most temples will not allow shorts or the multicoloured lungi or sarong that is worn by men in some parts of South Asia. Jeans are not advisable. Women can wear any garment that covers the legs including a long skirt that is below the knee, a Chruridar, Kurta-pyjama or Punjabi Suit or any other traditional Indian garment. Saris are certainly not essential. If you use common sense you will be all right. Some one being rude to you on account of your attire can sometimes spoil a trip. In some parts, especially the deep south such as in Kanyakumari district men are sometimes asked to take off their upper garment such as a shirt and are required to be bare bodied waist up inside the temple. So be prepared to take your shirt off if you are male. In most others places wearing a shirt or T -Shirt is fine. The only other place that I know of is Chidambaram where men have to take their shirts off.

4. Behaviour:

This pertains to those who visit these places to experience the art and architecture and are non-Hindu or not religious. As the more active temples are places of worship to many including the local population, it is important to maintain a certain level respect and decorum. Soft speech and an unhurried manner are important inside temples.

5. Footwear:

Footwear are not allowed inside temples. Most locals will walk in with bare feet after taking off their footwear at the entrance. Some temples will have dedicated foot wear safety stations where a minder will look after your foot wear for a token sum. Many of the smaller temples do not have a designated station and you can leave it at the entrance or with one of the vendors if you buy something from them. It is better not to wear expensive footwear although I have never heard of anyone losing their shoes at a temple. If your feet are sensitive or you have any queasiness about walking bare feet, you could wear a pair of clean, cheap socks inside the temple which is all right and you can discard them after a few uses.

6. Photography:

Photography is generally frowned upon inside a temple. Lugging a big camera inside a temple is a sure ticket to being thrown out. You could unobtrusively take some pictures using a device such as a mobile phone. Even then, do not take pictures of the deities without express permission. You can take as many pictures as you want of the outside structures.

7. Touts:

Touts are ubiquitous in some temples.  It is useful to know who a tout is to deal with them. A tout is a person, usually a man, who will approach you just as you are about to enter a temple. They might introduce themselves as guides and act as if they are part of the temple administration or someone appointed by them. They will offer to show you around the temple and quite often will not take no for an answer and will impose their services on you. If you ask them whether there is a fee, they will ignore the question. They are useful because they know the temple and its specialties, peculiarities, significance etc. They will have a good relationship with the priests and get you close to the inner sanctum. They are not always accurate with their facts as they are often not very educated and they are not licensed guides. They will demand a fee when you are done and will not name a fee. They will ask you to come up with an amount knowing fully well that you will not know what is appropriate. Whatever amount you come up with, they will demand more and will not let go till it is at least double what you initially offered. Most people get annoyed with this whole experience and it makes them angry. They hold it against the temple where as the temple has little to do with it. If you know about this practice ahead of time you can use it to your advantage or simply avoid it. If you want to use a tout, use them by all means because they are useful. When it comes to payment find out what the usual payment is and offer less and be prepared to pay a bit more.

8. Entry to Non-Hindus: 

This is quite variable. Most temples have no restrictions. Some restrict entry to only Hindus to certain parts of the temple including the sanctum. It is actually a bit discriminatory as any Indian or Indian-looking person can enter as there is no verification process. It only ends up barring foreign looking people. However most temples will not restrict entry as long as the visitor is respectful of the customs.  

9. Entry Fees: 

Entry is free in temples. Some temples have a fee for fast lanes to the sanctum or to certain parts of the temple. However this is usually found in the more popular temples. It is essentially a crowd control mechanism as the crowds can become quite large and unmanageable in some of the well known temples. The lesser known temples usually do not have this problem. If you donate money through the many tills or Hundials, the money will go to the government which owns most temples. It is a form of revenue to the government and the collected funds may not benefit that particular temple or any temple for that matter. If you pay for a Pooja at the temple office at the entrance, the money will again go to the government  Giving money to the priest is not condoned by the administration as they are salaried, although the salary is quite meagre. But giving a small sum of money to the priest will buy you goodwill. Paying a tout is entirely up to you. Professional guides are available at the more well known temples.

10. Beggars:

Beggars are ubiquitous at temple entrances. It is customary for temple devotees to give alms to beggars at the entrance. It is a long tradition and it is the belief of many that giving to the poor at a temple will bring them blessings. There is no obligation. Usually they will leave you alone if you ignore them. If you do give money, be discreet or you can get swarmed.

11. Time Allocation:

This depends on your interest, time available and the size of the temple. An hour is minimum and 3 hours are maximum time needed for most people.

Being aware of the cultural aspects and customs of these temples will better prepare you and make your visit pleasant without any untoward surprises. 

Vattakottai Fort - Layers of History

In Tamil, Vattam means circle. This ancient fort is rectangular in shape and is found about 9 kms to the east of Kanyakumari. It is a recently restored coastal fort and is in a remarkable state of preservation. It is reminiscent of many such colonial European style forts that dot the coasts of India and Sri Lanka. But this was built in its current form by an Indian power, the Kingdom of Travancore in the 1700s. Most of the construction as we see it today, is attributed to Eustachius De Lannoy the French speaking, Belgian born adventurer, who commanded the Dutch force at the Battle of Colachel fought between the forces of the Dutch East India Company and Travancore in August 1741. This was one of the few instances when an Indian force decidedly defeated a European military force. De Lannoy was captured alive, became friends with the Travancore king Marthanda Varman and was made the commander of the Travancore Army reorganizing it and arming it along European military lines. But within the fort one finds clues that this was an ancient Pandian Fort that was built to protect the pearl fishery further east and De Lannoy built his fort over an existing one. You will find plenty of the ubiquitous fish symbols on ceilings and walls.

Even if you are not a history lover, this is a nice place to visit. It is a tranquil setting and has spectacular views of the ocean and coast. The beach here has black sand. To the north you see the southernmost parts of the Western Ghat mountains. You can see the Koodankoolam Nuclear Power plant and scores of windmills in the distance.