Saturday, September 19, 2020

Nagaraja Temple - Nagercoil - A Temple for the Serpent - நாகர்கோயில்

The snake, especially the cobra, has a special place in the cultures of South Asia. The cobra is venerated as a sacred animal in many traditions including the Hindu, Jain and Buddhist. It is a mythical being in many beliefs.

Cultures that worship the snake have been around this region for centuries preceding the advent of more structured religions. With its deadly bite and appearance, the cobra was feared and respected. People never harmed these animals and it is a cardinal sin to harm a cobra in many cultures. 

Many ancient tribes have been named after the cobra. Along the coast of the Tamil country, Kerala and in Northern Sri Lanka, one or more tribes have been named as such. A people called the Nagar (நாகர்) appear in many legends, myths and historical texts in India and Sri Lanka. From the Mahavamsa and the Manimekalai to the Periplus of the Erythraean sea, snake worshipping Nagar tribes are everywhere. They seem to be one of the earliest Tamil or Tamilized tribes. In Kerala a community called the Nair derives their name from the snake. Many place names seem to remind us of the Naga tradition.

Here, in the very south of India, in the heart of the city of Nagercoil, is a temple dedicated to the snake giving the city its name. Nagaraja, the king of snakes and the cobra around Siva's neck is the main deity here. So in a way it is a temple of Siva. But there is an idol of Vishnu here making it special for Vaishnavites too. In ancient times, it appears to have been a Jain temple also. Plenty of Jain sculptures and inscriptions here. 

The architecture is not very impressive but unique. The current structure was built in the Keralan style by the Travancore kings. Snakes are encouraged to visit the temple and they say that there are two resident cobras here. They are fed with milk on a regular basis. Hundreds of idols of snakes are found everywhere. They say nobody has died of a snake bite in this area as far as anybody can remember.










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