Friday, July 31, 2020

The South Indian Temple - Architecture

Before we go on to the next temple, we will familiarize ourselves with the basic plan and architectural elements of a South Indian temple. This is a simple approach for the benefit of those who have rarely or never visited one of these temples. To others this will be of little value or a refresher.

The architecture of South Indian temples belongs to the Dravidian style and is distinctly different from those found in other parts of India, although they follow the same principles. The Dravidian style is the predominant style of temples in Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, Andhra, Telangana, Kerala and Sri Lanka. 

Those who have followed these posts may feel that most of these temples look very similar and they are. That is why I have tried to show photos of different angles of these temples to keep it interesting. Of course there are important differences and every temple is unique. They look similar because they were built according to a certain set of principles that were codified in the 8th century. There are several texts called the Shilpa Sastras and the Agamas that clearly lay out how a temple should be built. These temples are built according to the coordinates of Yantras, ancient and mystical diagrams that represent the universe. 

The most important part of a temple is the moolasthaanam or sanctum sanctorum. It is the womb of the temple or the Garbagraham. The primary deity resides here. It is usually a fixed, stone idol. This space is quite small in older temples. In Sivan temples it is usually but not always a lingam. In other temples it is a stone idol. This small space can be square, rectangular, circular or apsidal and is capped by the Vimanam which also comes in many shapes. Just in front of this is an ante-chamber that is called the Arthamandapam. Surrounding these two structures is the great hall or Mahamandapam that has several subsidiary shrines. This complex has one or 3 entrances and is enclosed. Surrounding these are a series of often rectangular walled enclosures that are the circumbulatory pathways or Prakarams. The inner ones are enclosed while the outer ones are exposed to the sky. They are in a sequence of odd numbers and are up to 7 in larger temples. The outermost is usually not surrounded by a wall. The enclosures house several subsidiary shrines and the Uthsavamoorthy the processional idol which is usually a movable metal idol. The walls have alcoves or recesses that house a wide variety of deities.

As you enter the temple the first structure is the gopuram or temple tower. It is usually built over the entrance of a walled enclosure. These were mostly later additions in time and in a lot of temples dwarf the height of the Vimanam. You then encounter the Kodimaram (the flagstaff), the Balipeedam (the sacrificial altar) and the Vaahanam ( Vehicle - Nanthi in Sivan temples and Garuda in Vishnu temples). The entrance to the Arthamandapam is flanked by two large guardian statues usually called the Dwarapaalakar.

Hope this gives people the context to appreciate these temples. Below are some examples. Of course there are many variations.







Friday, July 24, 2020

Kailasanathar Koil - Srivaikuntham

Very close to the Kallapiran temple in Srivaikuntham that we just saw in the previous post, is this ancient Sivan temple. It is again one of nine Sivan temples along the Thamirabarani river called the Nava Kailasam temples. The Sivan in all these temples carries the name Kailasanathar and each one is dedicated to a Navagraha. This one is the Saneeswaran temple dedicated to Saturn.

It is a beautiful old temple originally built by the Pandian kings and added on to by Vijayanagar and Nayakkan kings. The sculptures here although less in number than at the Perumal temple, are equally awe inspiring. Note the intricate work done in granite on the warrior sculpture in the Muhamandapam. To the right is the shrine for a beautiful Nataraja idol that is called the Santhana Sabapathy covered in sandalwood paste. Also note that this temple has a large flat topped granite entrance way without the customary gopuram on top. Perhaps the builders never got around to building one or they never meant to build one. 

You may have noticed most temples that we went to were rather empty and devoid of people, which was nice for us to experience these places in peace. These are small towns and villages after all. But the people do flock to these temples on special days and times. We visited this particular temple during the Pradosham, which is the 13th day of every fortnight and occurs twice a month. The 3 hours that span the sundown are auspicious to worship Sivan.









Saturday, July 18, 2020

Srivaikuntham - Kallapiran Thirukoil

This is an ancient Divya Desam Vishnu temple on the Thamirabarani River. There are nine important Vishnu temples along the Thamirabarani which are called the Nava Thirupathi Temples, each associated with a Navagraham. Some of the best granite sculptures of the 16th century Nayakkan era are found here at Srivaikuntham. The life size sculptures are exquisitely carved in granite which is a difficult medium to carve as it fragments easily.

The Lord here is known as Kallapiran because he once aided a bunch of robbers who stole from the rich and aided the poor. A Robin Hood kind of story. 

Solidly built granite temple, it is indeed worth visiting both for the blessings and to admire the art. 

The Thiruvengadamudayan hall to the right as you enter through the main entrance way is very beautiful.

Look for the simple elegant columns or pillars of the Pandian era and the more elaborately carved ones from the Nayakkan era. 

AlwarThirunagari is another one of the beautiful Nava Thirupathi temples very close to here which unfortunately we could not visit due to the lack of time.


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The Saluvankuppam Murugan Temple - The Oldest Temple

People often ask me which is the oldest temple in Tamil Nadu. It is a tough question because many of the temples are extremely difficult to ...